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    故鄉的野菜

    作者:周作人
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    原文

    我的故鄉不止一個,凡我住過的地方都是故鄉。故鄉對于我并沒有什么特別的情分,只因釣于斯游于斯的關系,朝夕會面,遂成相識,正如鄉村里的鄰舍一樣,雖然不是親屬,別后有時也要想念到他。我在浙東住過十幾年,南京東京都住過六年,這都是我的故鄉,現在住在北京,于是北京就成了我的家鄉了。

    日前我的妻往西單市場買菜回來,說起有薺菜在那里賣著,我便想起浙東的事來。薺菜是浙東人春天常吃的野菜,鄉間不必說,就是城里只要有后園的人家都可以隨時采食,婦女小兒各拿一把剪刀一只“苗籃”,蹲在地上搜尋,是一種有趣味的游戲的工作。那時小孩們唱道:“薺萊馬蘭頭,姊姊嫁在后門頭。”后來馬蘭頭有鄉人拿來進城售賣了,但薺菜還是一種野菜,須得自家去采。關于薺菜向來頗有風雅的傳說,不過這似乎以吳地為主。《西湖游覽志》云:“三月三日男女皆戴薺菜花。諺云:三春戴薺花,桃李羞繁華。”顧祿的《清嘉錄》上亦說,“薺菜花俗呼野菜花,因諺有三月三螞蟻上灶山之語,三日人家皆以野菜花置灶徑上,以厭蟲蟻。侵晨村童叫賣不絕。或婦女簪髻上以祈清目,俗號眼亮花。”但浙東人卻不很理會這些事情,只是挑來做菜或炒年糕吃罷了。

    黃花麥果通稱鼠曲草,系菊科植物,葉小微圓互生,表面有白毛,花黃色,簇生梢頭。春天采嫩葉,搗爛去汁,和粉作糕,稱黃花麥果糕。小孩們有歌贊美之云:

    黃花麥果韌結結,

    關得大門自要吃,

    半塊拿弗出,一塊自要吃。

    清明前后掃墓時,有些人家——大約是保存古風的人家——用黃花麥果作供,但不作餅狀,做成小顆如指頂大,或細條如小指,以五六個作一攢,名曰繭果,不知是什么意思,或因蠶上山時設祭,也用這種食品,故有是稱,亦未可知。自從十二三歲時外出不參與外祖家掃墓以后,不復見過繭果,近來住在北京,也不再見黃花麥果的影子了。日本稱作“御形”,與薺菜同為春天的七草之一,也采來做點心用,狀如艾餃,名曰“草餅”,春分前后多食之,在北京也有,但是吃去總是日本風味,不復是兒時的黃花麥果糕了。

    掃墓時候所常吃的還有一種野菜,俗稱草紫,通稱紫云英。農人在收獲后,播種田內,用作肥料,是一種很被賤視的植物,但采取嫩莖瀹食,味頗鮮美,似豌豆苗。花紫紅色,數十畝接連不斷,一片錦繡,如鋪著華美的地毯,非常好看,而且花朵狀若蝴蝶,又如雞雛,尤為小孩所喜,間有白色的花,相傳可以治痢。很是珍重,但不易得。日本《俳句大辭典》云:“此草與蒲公英同是習見的東西,從幼年時代便已熟識。在女人里邊,不曾采過紫云英的人,恐未必有罷。”中國古來沒有花環,但紫云英的花球卻是小孩常玩的東西,這一層我還替那些小人們欣幸的。浙東掃墓用鼓吹,所以少年常隨了樂音去看“上墳船里的姣姣”;沒有錢的人家雖沒有鼓吹,但是船頭上篷窗下總露出些紫云英和杜鵑的花束,這也就是上墳船的確實的證據了。

    賞析

    本文由中國現代散文家周作人寫于1924年2月。

    當時的歲月并不能給作家以平和的生活,總讓他羈于現實生活,苦于人生多事。

    1923年9月,因為日籍妻子羽太信子的關系,周作人與魯迅斷交,要魯迅以后不要再到后邊院子里去。從此,怡怡兄弟,成為參商。

    再加上“五四”高潮過后,周作人思想上充滿著幻想破滅的悲哀,并感到走上歧路的矛盾,他因此產生了避退的思想,并創作了不少充滿著恬淡、閑寂韻味的隨筆小品。他希望通過對情感的抑制,在平和沖淡的文風中去尋求內心的平靜。

    本文融知識性趣味性于一爐,民俗童趣在平淡中娓娓道來,其語言平和沖淡、淡雅悠遠。其文風飄逸瀟灑、雅趣盎然,堪稱一幅淡雅悠遠的風俗畫。

    作者

    周作人(1885—1967),原名櫆壽(后改為奎綬),字星杓。筆名仲密、藥堂等。祖籍浙江紹興,魯迅之弟。中國現代散文家、詩人、文學翻譯家。“五四”以后,周作人成為《語絲》周刊的主編和主要撰稿人之一并寫了大量散文。

    作文素材吧 www.baiguoye.com

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